B12 Nipuxta
Victor Orshan of Zumallan in Los Angeles, California
Again in the village of Zumallan there were people who had orchards. Each family had a plot or two plots or a tanap of orchards. Now, in the summer the people used to go to the orchards and gather grapes. These grapes used to be gathered in pannier-baskets. They used to bring them on their backs to the houses. One may say that each family used to have a wine-press. They had to carry these grapes on their backs from the vineyard up to the winepress. In the wine-press they used to crush the grapes in order to extract their juice. After crushing the grapes—they used to pour the juice of the grapes into what we used to call ‘bins.’ These bins—they used to have dug up the ground and placed them in the ground up to their middle. After they poured the grape juice into the bins, there was (a kind of) soil, they used to go to some clean hills and find it, (it is known) by the name of ⁺xorana. They used to bring it and mix a little of it with the grape juice. At night and as morning broke, when they came, the grape juices, which were mixed like muddy water, by the morning were, as they say, clear as a bell. Then from this pure grape juice they used to take a little and pour it into a cauldron. They used to beat a little egg-white and throw it in it. They used to place this cauldron on the hearth. In the early years, according to what I remember, they used to put wood on the hearth, but in recent years, because the people had money and could purchase oil, they had mostly made oil hearths. They used to perform the same task, but more easily and cleanly. They used to boil the grape juice for half an hour, or perhaps forty-five minutes, depending on the size of the cauldron. Then the juice would come out as grape molasses. The colour of the molasses was black. They used to collect it in pots. For days they had to place a stick in this molasses. They used to beat it. Through the beating of the molasses its colour used to change from the colour black and it used to become white. Then it thickened and became almost like butter, but its colour was slightly reddish. One may say that every family used to do this thing, the cooking of molasses. They used to do this thing in summer so that they would have molasses for the entire period of winter. The topic, the question arises regarding the (origin of the) name nipuxta (‘molasses’). We have always heard it as being a single name, but we have not researched it much as to what its meaning is. Among one group (of people) it originates in the (Persian) word na-poxte. That is maybe a Persian had seen and said ‘What are you doing?’ Then they said ‘We are cooking,’ he saw something and perhaps said ‘This is na-poxte, that is ‘it is not cooked.’ This word, in the course of the years, changed and assumed the form nipuxta. There is another group of people who instead of nipuxta say meye poxte, because me in Persian has the meaning of wine. Molasses too is produced from grape juice, but of course it has not turned into wine. Thus they said méye napoxte (‘uncooked wine’) and again with the passage of the years this word has turned into nipuxta, as we know it today. They used to practice these traditions, one may say, in the villages of Urmi for cooking molasses. Until now too, we still practice this tradition here in America, in the city of Turlock, even here in the city of Los Angeles. That is we go and buy grapes, we crush them and cook them, just like the system that we used to practice in the village. We practice it here too. So this too is one of the traditions of the Urmi people that they have practiced for a long period of time and they have preserved it to this very day.